Thursday, 27 September 2012

Lazy days in Zanzibar

Well, as many of you will know, I've just got back from a short week's holiday in Zanzibar - just the name sounds exotic, and the reality is indeed truly delicious. Coming from dusty hot Oman, Zanzibar was a riot of colours, all to be enjoyed at a slow, gentle pace and at a comfortable temperature ...

Lush trees cover the island

Seaside shades of blue

The daily riot of colour at sundown

It was never going to be a hectic holiday - for my longest break since the beginning of the year, relaxation was always top of the agenda. Happily for me, Nungwi, on the northern tip of Zanzibar's main island, is still beautiful and relaxing despite apparently having been the site of massive development over the past few years. It may have changed beyond all recognition for the locals, and some parts are relatively built-up - and I dread to think what water and rubbish problems there might be lurking behind the scenes. Still, the people were almost universally friendly and pretty easy-going, and the buildings seem to use local materials and employ lots of local staff - still a holiday resort, but Benidorm it ain't ...

One of the more hectic bays -
and this was by far its busiest moment
Enjoying one of the newer bars after a hard days diving

The beach in front of our hotel -
no jostling to get your beach towel down here
Our hotel was a pretty typical example of the developments. The vast majority of the occupants were Italians on all-inclusive deals. However, after my Sharm Al Shaykh experience this year, this was pretty much the opposite - laid-back, comfortable, with individual touches and lots of smiles. We were only on a bed-and-breakfast deal and had plenty of decent food in other hotels and restaurants in nearby bays - although the seafood and salads on offer at the hotel were actually pretty delicious, and the barbecued tuna was truly memorable. Even the one day we came across one of those 'organised activities' - aqua aerobics in the bar pool - it was amusing rather than annoying, and certainly didn't stop us from enjoying our leisurely coffee (or was it already mojitos by then?)

The bed on arrival - we hardly dared sleep on it!

Our little cottage

View from the cottage down to the sea ...

There is lots to do and visit on Zanzibar - Stonetown is a World Heritage site, spice plantations, rural village tours, and remote islands to visit. I am both proud and disappointed to say that we did NONE of these things. In fact, I think our laziest day involved slowly getting up, eventually walking 100m down the beach to a cafe, and at some point later walking the 100m back ... however, we did manage to go diving for the first three days, which I guess some people would call being active, and at least involved seeing some of the rest of the island from our happy little boat.

Chicateen, Idi and Usman provide music and smiles galore

Coping with the pace

The diving itself was awesome - although the visibility wasn't always great, and the currents were sometimes against us, I went deeper than I've ever been and we saw some truly amazing stuff. No photos of my own I'm afraid, but here are a couple of the amazing animals we got to play with.

Leaf scorpionfish

Several sites had forests of coral plates

A Helmet Gurnard - they spread their 'wings' when startled
and 'run' off across the sand

Linda's flatworm - one of many weird and wonderful nudibranches

A Seagrass Pipefish - amazing camouflage,
and really hard to spot!

Thornyback Cowfish - a cute little thing
who seemed to want to play!

So, all in all, Zanzibar is a place I will definitely be going back to - to do more relaxing, more of the diving, and I might even stir myself into some tourism. For this trip though it was the good company, the culinary experiences, and the beauty above and below the water that made this, for me, a true paradise island ...

punting Zanzibar style - slow but sure ...

The end of another perfect day ...


There's always a reason to smile ...

I may have had to take out my first mortgage to pay for car repairs this week (grrr), but this sign at the garage did sweeten the pill a little ...



Saturday, 15 September 2012

Five a day in Salalah

Salalah is famous for its green hills during monsoon and for being the centre of the old frankincense trade. But it is also the fruit garden of Oman, and there are huge forests of fruit trees throughout the city.

Trees groaning with papaya

Soon to be a lovely bunch of bananas

It is pretty much obligatory to stop at the side of the road at one the many many fruit stalls, and walk away with mountains of weird and wonderful fruit ...

Wares in front, plantations behind ...
Fresh tamarind

Colours to delight the eye as well as the palate

And after all that hard fruit sampling and bargaining, there's nothing like a nice fresh coconut to rehydrate - yummy AND virtuous tourism, what bliss!

Bring it on ...


Thursday, 13 September 2012

The green green grass of ...

Oman? Really? By now you faithful followers will have seen plenty of pictures like the one below - although I do love it for oh so many reasons, Oman can generally best be described as desolately beautiful ...


But there is a little corner that bucks the trend - Salalah, down in the south of the Oman, gets the tail end of the monsoon. Most of the time it's as dry and barren as the rest of the country, but for three months of the year a strip of hills about ten kilometres wide around the city of Salalah is transformed from another desert dustbowl into something completely different ...

On the hilltops, a layer of cloud slowly rises and then falls throughout the day, so that Salalah itself is shrouded in fog in the mornings and evenings.

Redundant sun loungers at the Crowne Plaza
The hills themselves are almost permanently foggy, and after months of sunshine and blues skies (apologies to all those in the UK!), it's actually surprisingly pleasant to sit on wet grass and peer through the mist at trees and rolling hills - more south Wales than the Middle East ...

OK, so it's still 23 degrees, but still so refreshing!

Just needs some sheep, and maybe a hippy looking for those mushrooms 
The valleys down near Salalah have an altogether different feel to them - less British-summertime and more Asian-jungle. No waterfalls when I visited, but they do apparently come crashing down in June and July when the rain really kicks off, and we can certainly see the verdant bounty that all the rain brings ...

Another world ...

The waterfall has run dry, but its work is done 

Sussex or the Gulf?
Happy goats munching

A strange form of lichen ...

The rainbow colours of Oman's rare lushness

Wednesday, 12 September 2012

It's a rock and roll country

Oman has a bit of a reputation as the quiet, traditional corner of the Gulf - although compared to the 'buzzing metropolis' (= ugly consumerism and concrete jungle) of Dubai, this is definitely a good thing!

Still, even I thought that this story on page 3 of a national newspaper made Oman sound pretty dull - it certainly won't be dragging me away from my crocheting ...


Tuesday, 28 August 2012

You're never too old to have fun!

I would like to dedicate my 150th post (already!) to all the amazing people who stand as living proof that life can continue to surprise, delight and teach valuable lessons every day of every year, as long as we still want it to ...

Rally-driving granny R

Learning to scuba in your sixties? Why not!

He may be an OAP, but Alan conquers the heights with ease ... 

So, to all those amazing people who reassure me that I don't HAVE to turn into a boring old fart ... I salute you.

Saturday, 25 August 2012

Underwater paradise ...

As you probably know, I've been getting into my diving again over the last year - it's fun, it's a form of exercise that my ankle doesn't disapprove of, and when it's 50 degrees outside, the underwater world is a nice place to be! But more than anything, it's the life down there that I love, a whole other world with weird and wonderful creatures and, in the best spots, a riot of colour that you just don't get anywhere on land. I don't normally get to share this world with non-divers and distant friends, but this week we had the perfect combination of excellent visibility, lots of things that had come out to play and friends with a decent underwater camera (thank you Joy!). So here's a small selection of what Oman's waters have to offer ...

There are fish galore ...

A shoal of Bigeye Snappers (delicious with garlic)

A Half-spotted Hind from the grouper family
Oman is always a place to spot rays (but don't get too close)

One of the Numbfish family of rays -
either a lesser or a large-eye electric ray?

A marbled torpedo ray having a snooze -
another ray that can give you quite a shock
Even when the fish are hiding, the plants and corals are a marvel on their own ...


A wall of vegetation

Soft and hard corals
And then there is the other stuff - scary, intricate or just plain strange ...

Honeycomb moray eel -
these buggers can be over 2m long
and always look like they're hungry ...

Animal, vegetable or mineral?
Who knows ... but very pretty

A nudibranch called Jorunna Funebris -
a seriously strange family of animals ...