So, first foray out of town last weekend, up into the mountains behind Muscat to the town of Nizwa. The country inland from here starts off as a mountainous desert with little towns that have sprung up around water sources, creating islands of green between the towering rocky heights.
The trees are mainly acres and acres of date groves, with houses scattered in between, all fed with water from the mountains. The water is channelled through systems called falaj, and any village or town is completely dependent on these falaj to survive.
The other thing that every town needed in this area to survive was a fortress of some kind to defend its people, and Nizwa has a corker! Walking up to it your are confronted by the massive tower, which looks pretty impossible to even consider breaching, and high walls surrounding the inner sanctum. The tower is apparently mostly solid, made up of chambers filled with many many tons of rubble, and I read one book about cannons firing at this particular tower and barely making a scratch!
The surprising thing when you get inside is how much space there is, with rooms and passageways in all directions and on several levels. This means that there was lots of stairs, arches and little nooks and crannies to hide from the sun, so that those inside the fort can stay cool while those on the outside are baking in the sun. There was also a pretty nifty museum in the basement with lovely AC and a model of the fort complete with amazingly realistic trees!
We spent a good hour roaming up, down, in and out, which was pretty good going considering the 40 degree heat! This fort has been beautifully restored, and although many of the rooms are empty, some of them have been furnished with carpets and artefacts, and it's not hard to imagine what the others would be like, complete with soldiers lounging inside during the heat of the day. Bet most of the fighting took a break for lunch around here!
But the thing I loved best was standing at the top of the tower, looking out over the town and the tiny people moving about below and feeling completely invincible! Close your eyes and you can imagine watching the enemies approaching from on high, raining down arrows, cannons pounding in every direction and pouring hot date syrup on enemies who dared to come too close ... bring it on!