Bosra

Another fine example of Roman stuff for you - this is from Bosra in southern Syria, right near the border with Jordan. I popped in there on the way home from Damascus last time, and was glad I made the small detour - it was a beautiful sunny day, I left early enough to have the palce almost to myself, and the place itself was magic ...

Bosra is most famous for its theatre, which is supposed to be one of the best preserved examples in the world. This is partly because so much of it is made of basalt, but also because it was almost completely buried under sand and surrounded by an Ummayad fort. They only dug it out recently, and like so many of these places, there is bound to be much more to discover buried under the surrounding area or under the foundations of the modern town.

Also like so many other monuments in the region, the archeologists have dug up more stuff than they know what to do with, and there are examples of statues and carvings just lying around the theatre complex ...

Then, around the theatre and fort are parts of the Roman city mixed in with Ummayad, Abbuyid and Ottoman era buildings, some of which are still lived in.




Some of the buildings have also been turned into weaving centres, and I spent a long time sitting around watching the guys at work and asking questions ... this is the only place I've ever been to where it was almost always men working on the looms - I don't know if this was just the looms in shops, with women working at home out of the sight of strangers, or if there's a different division of labour here.






And then there is this mosque - not much to look at from the photo, but this was apparently one of the very first mosques to be built after the ones at Mecca and Medina, built by the second Caliph Omar (the Caliphs were the people who led the Muslims after Mohammed's death, so this is right at the beginning of the Muslim era - it felt strange to be standing in the same room as friends of the Prophet himself, it made me think about how much more real and alive the Muslim faith can be compared to Christianity, where it is so much harder to distinguish the stories from the reality ...

And the last surprise was this reservoir - again Roman, and not even full when I saw it - it's so rare to see any expanse of water here in the Middle East, and to see a whole lake made me want to dive in so badly ... although it didn't look like the cleanest water in the world. The y may have invented all sorts of modern conveniences, but water purification was not (as far as I know) one of them ...

My secret garden

Now that the weather is warming up, it is time to start transferring life to the roof terrace, a little haven that comes with my flat and which has been woefully neglected until now. But after a week of cleaning, tidying and installing of greenery, it'slooking just fab - and just for my wonderful friend who is currently moving my life into boxes and generally having a stressful time of it, here is the lovely little sanctuary that you will be enjoying in a week from now ...

As well as comfy seating, a hammock is an essential element of any relaxing experience, and mine goes everywhere with me ...

The barbecue - to be christened next week when poker night also transfers to the roof ...

The herb garden - with more growing from seed in the kitchen, and a separate little basil bush by the barbecue to go with the wonderful tomatoes here ...

For people who lie that kind of thing, here are some of the that are bringing a splash of colour to the sanctuary ...


And because I know that they are some of my friend's favourite little flowers, I planted lobelias all around the sun umbrella ...

More wandering ...

It's been a little while since I went away to Syria for a 4 day jaunt, but life has been hectic (plus Google decided to stop uploading photos from some reason) and I'm finally now having my first night in on my own in aaaaaaaages ... so time to catch up. I love Syria, or at least Damascus, it seems to have all the nice bits about the Middle East - the people shouting 'welcome' everywhere, the winding souks, the beautiful houses and great food - without so many of the drawbacks (although I wouldn't want to be an active opponent of the regime here ...) It's an easy place to be, and a great break from Amman, so I intend to keep going on a regular basis (and I haven't even tried Beirut yet, which is supposed to be party town extraordinaire)


My favourite thing to do in Damascus is wandering - there are always new alleyways to explore, new shops to browse in and things happening in the street. There are some ugly buildings - this one on the right must be up there with the best of them, and the monstrosity behind the mosque below has apparently been abandoned like this for years now, since they found out that it was subsiding ... nothing like a bit of forward planning eh.



But then there's the old city, which I know I've raved about before, but it really is fantastic - among my favourite spots are ...

The Daddy of icecreams shops, Bakdash.

I have seen this shop with people ten deep just to get near the door ...

101 little alleyways, each one a mini-Aladdin's cave of wierd and wonderful delights ...

Fabulous Ottoman era architecture everywhere, with lots of it being beautifully restored ...

Yummy stuff to eat wherever you turn ... damn, they make it look so good.

There were two really special moments during the weekend which made me think about the idea of "the Middle East" and all the images that those 3 little words conjure up in Europe, which are so different from the way things are, or at least can be.

The first was during a visit to the enormous and very beautiful Ummayad Mosque, the largest mosque in Damascus and considered one of the holiest sites in the world for Muslims outside of Saudi Arabia. The mosque is particularly special for Shia muslims because the tomb of Hussein, the son of Ali, is in the mosque - the whole Shia-Sunni split originated in arguments about whether the religious leadership of the Muslim community should have been given to the Prophet Muhhamad's family (so going to Ali first) or to individuals who were close to Muhammad, which is what in fact happened. However, the mosque is not a Shia mosque, and there are all sorts of other special places important to Muslims more widely, including the tomb of Salahuddin who defeated the Crusaders way back when, and a small building claiming to contain the head of John the Baptist.

All this means that the mosque has all sorts of people in it, and it is always so great to see these different groups of Muslims and others mixing happily - in the photo above, you can see a group of Sunni men from the Gulf in their flowing white robes, while on the right is a group of Shia Iranian women in their black abayas. Although it might look like a scene from West Side Story, there was really more of a party atmosphere than anything else, especially because it was Iranian New Year and there was literally hundreds of pilgrims visiting the tomb and singing in the mosque itself, while people either walked past or sat and watched.



The whole thing really made me think about how much is made (in the news and elsewhere) of the disagreements and conflicts between different Muslim groups, and how little we hear about groups living happily side by side as they seem to do here. I don't think these kinds of scenes are necessarily representative of all of the region, but there are definately parts where this has been the case and others where we can still enjoy real diversity - I guess Damascus has had several thousand years of existence to reach this point, with many periods of conflict, but that doesn't mean other parts of the world can't learn from it.

The other activity that I loved and that is a great community event was going up the mountain that overlooks and joining the hundreds of Damascenes who go up there to watch the sun set and chat about the day - there are coffee stalls, roasted sweetcorn and nargileh (hubbly-bubbly) sellers all along, and people bring the entire family and a little picnic for the event, while yoofs cruise the streets (in the most un threatening way imaginable!) and the fun train provides occasional Arabic beats ...

But the best bit of all for me is when the sunset call to prayer starts up, and a hundred mosques from across the city start up (almost) in unison to praise Allah - it lifts me up to hear it, and even though I'm not into this or any religion as you know, the sounds and feelings seem to transcend and express something positive and beautful that everyone can understand ...

Thought for the Day

Partly as an 'hommage' to my very good friend Urban Cynic's recent 'Thought for the Day' post- available here - here is my own short but sweet little thought for the day, courtesy of the local producers of fizzy drinks and philosophical outbursts ...

A good place to be old?

Life isn't always easy here, and it's so much harder for all the people trying to scrape enough money together from their meagre salaries to get by, but it does seem that things geta bit easier when you get older - although you have various diseases to cope with of course (Jordan has horrific rates of diabetes for example, all that incredibly sweet stuff ...), the children look after you, and you can spend your time sitting around, chatting with your mates or just watching the world go by. No feeling lonely in a wierd smelling old people's home for these OAPs, it's pay back time for all those years of toil and worry. Thought I'd share a few of my fave photos of chilled oldies enjoying the twilight years ...

Grannies chilling on a bench overlooking Damascus - nice spot ...

Large grandad on a very small bike ...

Taking time out in the mosque for a little sit down ....

Pretty Flowers ...

I am happy to announce that spring/summer is well under way here, and as well as soaring temperatures (32 degrees today! which is apparently warmer than normal, but well appreciated nonetheless), this means that all the flowers are now blooming and visits to the countryside are like scenes from an episode of Heidi ...

Yesterday a mate and I went on a day trip to Um Qais, up by the Golan Heights, where frolicking through waist-high carpets of flowers was the order of the day ...

Ruins peeking out of the carpets of flowers ...

... and me doing the same!

I know this is all a bit girlie, but there were so many different kinds of beautiful flowers and I just have to share a few of my favourites from the day - the one on the right looked so much like a nettle from a distance, but when we got up closer and saw the variegated leaves and beautiful flowers we wondered if this might have been an example of plant mimicry ... and the others are just pretty!






And then to top it all off, we had flocks of what I swear were storks circling above us (hope the video's not too small to see them) as we sat and watched the world go by and listened to the songbirds and their cries of luuurve .... don't you love spring?

The Great Marmite Debate

Another slight aside - I have recently been introduced to the wonder of Marmite XO ... now, I must admit that I was initially suspicious that this could just be a marketting ploy, playing on the weaknesses of a nation of Marmite lovers, and when I saw the slightly elevated price tag I was even more suspicious ...

However, I can now declare, after a scientific taste testing at lunchtime (involving many many slices of toast) that it really IS better - back to the old recipe, bit tarter and more Bovril-like, real Marmite like your Mum used to make ...

And if you're still not convinced, have a look at the difference in this comparison chart (well, OK then, photo), highlighting the difference in hue related to the variance in composition (the day they invent a way to transmit taste and smell on the net, I will be a happy woman!).

There's no place like home

Well, just back from a long weekend in Blighty, and I am just full of happiness and longing for it all to have lasted a little longer - it really is my home, warts and all! So, as a little detour from the norm, here is the beginning of a (not very original but "from the heart") list of the things I miss when I'm far far from home ...

1. The People I Love
Goes without saying really, but I miss them soooooo much, and all the little things that make them special - the continuous wit and pedantic comments, the shared love of food and fat beats, the openness to new people and ideas, all their amazing talents and inspirational achievements, the concern when my adventures look like they're taking a wierd turn ... you guys are fab!

2. Pubs
There really is nothing like a good British pub, that great institution where the normal reserves come down and you can drink a good pint, stuff yourself with filling and tasty nosh, sit on your own going through the weekend papers or chat about life, politics or any other subject with your mates or any old complete stranger for hours on end. Fantastic.



3. The Food
Possibly a controversial choice (especially from a French girl) but I stand by the statement that there is some truely wonderful world-class food to be had in the UK - highlights of my weekend were ox tongue pie with suet crust (thanks for the great recommendation Mia!), slow roast pork belly, and of course the ubiquitous Sunday Roast - this is the offerings available at the Halfway House on the Lewes - Uckfield road (thanks Martin and Sally!)



4. The Culture
We do a great line in art and culture in Britain, and especially in making it popular and available to the masses, both to appreciate and to participate - managed to fit in a visit to Tate Britain for the Chris Ofili (not sure about the dung, but great colour) and Henry Moore (discovering his paintings was a revelation), and of course there is always art to look at on almost every street corner ... I am going to be doing a short experimental art e-course run by my friend Amelia to release the inner creative urges in me, and wandering around Ladbroke Grove was a great inspiration to get expressing!

5. The Shops
As you will know, I'm not a shopping fan, but if you do want to shop the UK does have an amazing range from the poncy designer to the quirky independent stores, and a shop for pretty much anything and everything. Compared to the dominance of sterile malls in Amman, the UK is a paradise, and that's without even considering the price difference (for new readers, I am constantly complaining about how expensive things are out here, and now just been reminded how true that is!)

6. The Parties
I'm sorry, but while the continent may excel in jazz conventions and trance parties, nothing really beats a good old warehouse party in the UK, and British people can and do dance - let me and my housemates show you how it's done ...

In the Middle East, but not ...

Last weekend I had a fantastic weekend away in Israel, but have been way too busy to sit down and write about it til now - homework, sorting some house things in preparation for a temporary housemate (Ruth, volunteering here in Amman for a month), getting my car fixed, running around getting last minute pressies for my trip home to the UK ... well, you all know how life can get. But now it's just me and some loud music until the gang arrive for poker night, so time to fill you in on my latest little adventure.

Firstly, although Israel is the cradle of so many religions, I restricted this trip to Tel Aviv, partly to spend time with Tamar but also because I'll know I'll be back to visit more classic tourist destinations. Tel Aviv is a modern city - only about 100 years old - but I loved the feel of it nonetheless, with a range of districts from the old to the brand spanking new. As the guidebooks all seem to note, there are bits of Tel Aviv that are getting a bit tatty, but really I think this is part of the charm, and it has some great architecture (as above and on the right) and greenery all over - such a nice change from dusty Amman!


Tel Aviv has a really nice relaxed mediterranean feel to it - cafe culture, people living very outdoor lives and it feels like pretty much anything goes ... I spent most of the time feeling super relaxed and enjoying just being myself without having to think about how to dress, move, act and be, although I must say that every now and then I'd have a strange moment where I'd realise that I am still in the Middle East, and how strange it is to be somewhere so totally different and alien to the Arabic culture on all sides ...

You know what though, I was so in need of a break, and it wasn't too hard to put any 'feeling out of place' moments to one side to just relax and enjoy the many wonderful things that Tel Aviv had to offer compared to Amman - and boy, was I royally served. Tel Aviv has a reputation as a party town anyway, but I managed to turn up on the one day of the year that the parties are the entire focus of the city - it was the festival of Purim, which celebrates the Jewish people being saved from an evil plot described in the Book of Esther, and as well as certain activities at the synagogue this festival involves dressing up in fancy dress (did you see the clowns above?) and being merry - it's the (religious) law! I love the fact that we were being actively encouraged to go out and get plastered - apparently "the jovial character of this feast is illustrated in the saying of the Talmud (Megilla 7b) stating that one should drink on Purim until he can no longer distinguish between (ad delo yada) the phrases, arur Haman ("Cursed is Haman") and baruch Mordecai ("Blessed is Mordecai")." Fabulous!

So after spending a day wandering the streets and enjoying the complete lack of self-consciousness of people everywhere in the street in some kind of fancy dress, Tamar and I then did our best to fulfill our religious duty and "be merry" ... boy, it has been too long ....

And the day after a long night of dancing my socks off with carefree happy people (a pretty good turnout considering the downpours we were treated to), the perfect day after - wandering around the oldest part of the city and tucking into a good meal. NeveTsedek is the first area of modern Tel Aviv and there are lots of small streets and buildings, a little oasis of boutiques and cafes surrounded by the growing skyscrapers. And thanks to the local guide, we had a brunch to satisfy the mild hangover and in a relaxed bohemian atmosphere that I drank up in preparation for the short journey home to Jordan - close in distance but a land that feels much much further away from this Mediterranean lifestyle ...

Jelly babies?

Another gratuitous under-the-sea action movie for you - this was my attempt to film a jellyfish (happily, the kind without stinging tentacles) swimming in the Red Sea. What I can't work out is if this is one jellyfish with two bell-shaped body sections, or two jellyfish getting down to some jellyfish loving ...